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geminiwench @ 12:10 pm: Vintage machine help!
I'm no newbie to sewing or wrestling with my sewing machine,... but Im stumped!

Im finishing up a heavy project, and using my Signature model URR-288, which is a machine I got for free and know absolutely nothing about except that its a late 1950s, early 60s model, is a straight-stitch machine only, and works very fast and efficiently,... usually.

It was working fine, sewing through 6 layers (two medium weight canvas, two fleece, two flannel) with medium weight thread and size 18 needle... until I got excited, started helping the feeding feet, by pulling alittle too fast, the needle bent then broke.

Fine. Replace the needle and continue....

Except now, I can't get the machine to set a single stitch in my fabric! The top thread either breaks within a few stitches OR it will not catch the bobbin thread at all.

I tried playing with my top and bottom tension, switching out needles (in case the eye was just sharp), cleaning out fluff from under the throat plate, filing a burr from the throatplate from when the needle glanced off and broke...

Its the same thread, same size needle, and same thickness of fabric as was being sewed before, easily and happily... only now, it wont set a single stitch and I am at my wits end!

I dont want to switch machines to finish the project, I have a 1957 Singer model 401A, which needs a tune-up DESPERATELY before its run for too long again, plus its a slower machine that needs adjusted CONSTANTLY to keep tension..

Any help? Ideas? Tips?



Date:May 16th, 2007 12:59 pm (UTC)
this might not be of much help, but have the same problem with my juki from time to time. Just moved, so I get to have the fun of synchronising everything again.
Possible problems:
1. The needle is not in line with the catch [if you take off the bottom plates, you will be able to see this happening]
2. The even fickle thread tension. This is something that I still fight with, but if you keep playing with it, you should get it. The top and bottom tensions should be about the same.
3. The timing of the needle bar as mentioned above. If the bar is not tight enough, if the needle strikes the catch, it can knock it out of synch. slightly.
4. The needle it's self. Sometimes when sewing thicker materials, a leather needle is best. The thing is shaped a little differently, and really helps when sewing through heavy/thick material.

goodluck with your machine.
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Date:May 16th, 2007 06:59 pm (UTC)
Thanks for the help!!
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